Hidden, In Plain Site

Indian Springs Spa & Resort

By Kent Domogalla

Hidden, in plain site; that could describe the quaint hamlet of Calistoga and many of its features. As the last town (or the first, depending upon who you ask) in the Napa Valley, it is bounded by Mt. St Helena and the Mayacama mountains, and getting there can be a challenge. This is still the “old” Napa Valley where you run out of freeway at Yountville to the South, or Santa Rosa to the West (the 101 North exit sign doesn’t even list Calistoga) and the highways are two lanes following the old stage roads - a curse and a blessing.

For those who know, Calistoga is the historic hot springs spa town where you can find those 1880’s style hot mud baths, or the latest body scrub and for a wine aficionado. It is a perfect home base for visiting the Napa and Sonoma wine country. For the observant, it’s a town where you can be constantly surprised by little treasures hidden in plain sight.

An example is Indian Springs Spa & Resort, which sits on the site of the original Hot Springs Resort founded by Sam Brannan who also founded the town of Calistoga, and set its tone as a destination. While nothing remains on site of the original resort (other than some of the palm trees) it encompasses successor resorts, Nance’s and Pachateau’s and it has an absolutely spectacular mineral pool built in 1913. Across Lincoln Ave in lovely isolation is the Brannan Cottage Inn, where the only Brannan era cottage still on its original site, continues to host visitors to the Napa Valley.

A diorama of the original Hot Springs Resort can be viewed at the Sharpsteen Museum, itself another “hidden” treasure. Located downtown on Washington Street, the Museum’s displays were designed by Ben Sharpsteen, an Oscar winning Film Director at Disney Studios. Its unique façade was designed by noted local artist Carlo Marchiori. A local history museum, the Sharpsteen documents the Napa Valley from American emigration through WWI. This period covers local participation in the Donner Party rescue, the Bear Flag Revolt, the Gold Rush and the early development of the Valley including Robert Louis Stevenson’s Calistoga sojourn described in his Silverado Squatters.

Just down Washington Street from the museum is the Holy Assumption Monastery, founded in 1946 by a small group of nuns who fled from Russia and China. As the community grew, Orthodox Christians of all backgrounds came and it was soon apparent that the chapel was far too small. In 1959, a replica of the Fort Ross chapel (Fort Ross was the most southern extension of the Russian Empire in California) of 1812, was built. In a strange turn of fate, a subsequent fire destroyed the Fort Ross Chapel and the Calistoga Chapel was used to replicate the original. Under the direction of Abbot Sergios (Gerken) the Orthodox Religious Center is under restoration. The monastery gardens have been expanded and visitors are able to see the center’s wonderful collection of Icons dating from the 17th century.

Among the strangest artifacts of Calistoga’s founder, the colorful Samuel Brannan (he was California’s first millionaire, a leader of San Francisco’s Committee of Vigilance, the feared Vigilantes, a Railroad Barron and all-round character) is Winans Vault. While Calistoga has its Pioneer Cemetery, which is the final resting place of many early Calistogans, it was not used by the extended Brannan family. Winans Vault is located on the hillside at the corner of Kortum Canyon and Foothill Blvd. This was once the site of the home of Sam’s nephew Ezra Badlam, whose daughter married Joseph W. Winans, a San Francisco lawyer.

Winans Vault was built on the property in 1870 by Ezra, from stone brought from China by Winans. Records indicate that in June of 1913, and September of 1919, the remains of ten individuals were removed from the Vault and re-interred in the St Helena Cemetery. A subsequent property owner, tried to remove the vault by blasting. Though damaged, it withstood his efforts and while many of the imported stones and the original iron bound door have been removed, it remains today used for a more mundane purpose -- for wine storage.

And yes, there are wine treasures too. Many folks recognize the upper Napa Valley as the home of big reds. When wine tasting, it is not just the many accumulated recognitions and awards that count, but a matter of personal taste, a good thing, since there is always room for personal discovery. On the more spectacular side is the “new” winery, Castello di Amorosa. This decade-long project presents Daryl Sattui’s vision of medieval Tuscany which will open in the fall of 2006. Viewed from the patios of Sterling Vineyards you can see the crenellated towers and hand cut stone walls of this fantastic creation.

For local information and directions when planning your visit to Calistoga click on www.CalistogaChamber.com or when in town visit the Calistoga Chamber located behind the historic Depot.