Dining at the Royal Oak

Silverado Resort and Spa

By ML Hilton

(NAPA, CA) — Calling a restaurant a “steak house” evokes images of traditional, almost old-boy dining. Big slabs of grilled beef, heavily marbled or aged served alone or with all sides, well on the side. A traditional steak house is ALL about the beef. Everything else is almost superfluous.

This method, common amongst local steak houses, or restaurants that focus on high-end steaks is meant to not corrupt the taste of the meal with any dish beyond the beef. One marvelous filet I recently enjoyed (at a restaurant not to be named) only came with a very large quantity of very good French Fries. I understand the technique that puts this plate before you, but I lament that lack of balance – especially because a dinner like this is likely to be my one main meal of the day. You will not find this exclusively one-sided approach at the Royal Oak.

While the Royal Oak still retains its steak house designation, the varied menu evokes something much more complex in flavor, texture, and appeal – both for your palate and your wellbeing. Chef Peter Pahk is well known for his sustainable and organic philosophies. His food, it seems, needs to be as good for the animals (and vegetables) as it is for you. I have heard him starting to wax rhapsodic over the massage treatments a pig received before it became Peter’s barbecued pork.

While at the Royal Oak you can order your steak and keep your sides fried and on the side, and if you want -- by all means do so, but you may be overlooking some of the best work on the menu. Last Thursday (Oct. 19, 2006) we indulged in three different appetizers. Not to be passed up, if it is available, is the abalone appetizer. The delicious breading was light and was “one” with the extremely tender abalone. It was served with micro greens and a light citrus sauce. I had the Tuna, Tuna, Tuna prepared three different ways: a spicy poke, a sashimi, and a seared piece of tuna steak. We also indulged in the salad of the day which was a healthy serving (both in size and ingredients) of prosciutto, figs, and goat cheese with drizzled balsamic reduction. We called it the soft and happy salad. I was interested in the cheese fondue appetizer which was described at Formosa cheese and Riesling, but we had to move on from the appetizer menu.

Before we did, we indulged in an old holdout of the traditional steak house – now gone by the wayside in most bay area restaurants – the table-side making of a Caesar salad. Our server, Sammy, was a master of the technique, creating a creamy anchovy paste before our eyes (which is the only way I will eat an anchovy – smashed to smithereens and unrecognizable). The fresh taste of the salad was clearly heightened by our knowledge that only moments before it was a set of dispirit ingredients. Sammy recommended the 2004 Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay which paired beautifully.

Sammy picked all our wine that night (and he did a beautiful job), but if you like to pick for yourself, the Royal Oak’s wine list is nicely divided by intensity of the wine vs. its grape variety. It is respectable, easy-to-navigate, and not overwhelming.

After appetizers, we went on to try several selections off that night’s menu:

The air-dried Muscovy Duck breast with a cherry reduction and served on bulgur.
The Kona Kampachi – a perfect plate of fish that is salmon like in its texture and smell.
The Kobe Rib-eye steak so tender I thought it was Filet. This was served with the 2003 Whitehall Lane Merlot, which drinks like a cabernet.

Believe it or not, from there we sashayed through the dessert list. Enjoying the banana gelato in a lace cookie tuile (wrap) topped with warm strawberries “Fosters style” probably the most, but not hesitating to put away the seasonal cobbler with cinnamon ice cream and the Tiramisu. Or at least, I think we did, it all became a blur of wonderful tastes at that point.

I do remember the tiny glass of Muscato from Boony Doon that signaled the end of the meal. Are you curious as to how many people were in my dining party? The answer is two.

Thanks to Peter Pahk, Silverado, and the Royal Oak, is making the foodie’s list of local favorites. I know I will be back.

Prices $$
Royal Oak at Silverado
1600 Atlas Peak Road
Napa, CA 94558
(707) 257.5400